FOOD REVIEW: Oliver Maki, Soho

The latest resident to move in on Soho’s Dean Street is contemporary Japanese newcomer, Oliver Maki. It’s the first UK opening for the brother-duo team Oliver and Amer Zeiton, who already have award-winning restaurants in both Kuwait and Bahrain. We went along for a preview dinner before the restaurant opened to sample some of Executive Chef Louis Kenji Huang’s (formerly Head Sushi Chef at Nobu Las Vegas) creations.

We began with taster dishes of grilled edamame flaked with sea salt and an oyster shot each – fried oysters deliciously covered in a crispy batter (thankfully these didn’t need to be gulped down in one) that were perfectly sized nibbles. Next to arrive were the individual shrimp tempura shots – big juicy shrimps marinated in a delicate batter and deep fried. We get hungry just thinking about these fellas. Next up was their signature dish, the ‘Oliver Maki Roll‘, made up of 8 different rolls which include over 30 ingredients such as avocado, quinoa, black truffle, black rice and foie gras. Something of a sushi roulette as we weren’t exactly sure which roll we were going to get – but a delicious way to play with your food nonetheless.

Our final course was the ‘Out of the Box’ Bento Box – given it’s name because the box itself is a small clear cabinet featuring slide-out drawers, each containing a different dish, and on top in prime position are a number of the Chef’s daily Nigiri sushi waiting to be devoured first. Within the compartments lied the addictively good miso quinoa salad, crunchy maki sushi rolls, the special Oliver brown rice and a delicious warm salmon glazed in teriyaki sauce. Big enough for two, but far too good to even think about sharing. Full to the brim we managed a few small mouthfuls of the zingy yuzu sorbet to finish – just enough to refresh our palates and send us merrily on our way.

We rather like Soho’s latest resident – and think you will too.

33 Dean Street, London, W1D 4PW |

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