FOOD REVIEW: Kricket, Brixton

POP Brixton is the new “community campus” for start-ups and small businesses which opened in January this year. Businesses of all sorts are housed within empty sea containers – from sushi shops to cocktail bars to vintage pop-ups and yoga classes – meaning there’s plenty of reasons why you need to check it out. Our reason was Kricket.

Kricket is a 20 cover restaurant offering up Indian small plates and doubles up as a cocktail bar. It’s located somewhere upstairs within the ‘campus’ in a very narrow, long container. At the far end is the compact kitchen where chef Will and team get busy cooking, whilst the main area plays host to a long table where diners quite literally get up close and personal with their neighbours. The menu is kept short, changing every now and again, with dishes that advocate a modern approach to Indian cooking. We were recommended 3-5 dishes to share and went for it, ordering half the menu and waiting with intrigue as to what we’d actually ordered (the names don’t really give all that much away).

First of the five dishes (coming out as and when they’re ready) was the Bhel Puri. The most unusual but delicious dish of puffed-up rice covered in yogurt and tamarind with raw mango, served cold. Following on were the delightful samphire pakoras, lightly battered and drizzled with date & tamarind chutney, served with chilli garlic mayonnaise. Next up was the rich Bombay Butter Garlic Crab, scooped up with crisp seaweed papad and followed by the warm and hearty Kichri dish – smoked haddock, yellow moong dal, pickled cauliflower and topped with egg yolk. Saving the best till last, our final dish was the all-round crowd pleaser: Keralan Fried Chicken. Deliciously more-ish plump pieces of chicken served with a curry leaf mayonnaise and decorated with discs of pickled mouli. One of those dishes you can’t leave even when you’re about to explode like we were at this point.

Dessert was a matter of ‘do we/don’t we’ (we’d definitely need rolling down the stairs afterwards) but of course there was no way we could leave out the only sweet on the menu and so the guys sent over a small taster for us to share – the Gulab Jamum with carom seed crumble, pistachio and clotted cream ice cream which practically sent us over the edge. In the best way, of course.

Kricket two big thumbs up from us. It’s unlike any other Indian we’ve ever tasted – so if you’re tired of the usual Indian cooking, then Kricket is the ideal place to refresh those tastebuds and discover something new. Make sure you go hungry as you’ll be wanting to scrape the bowls clean. | 49 Brixton Station Road, SW9 8PQ